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Procedure

The following steps should be followed in sequence. Ideally, the Swim-by is taught in a series of daily lessons for maximum efficiency. Occasionally, I have done a second session in a day with a keen, willing young dog. Since there is repeated water work over a period of 15-30 minutes, do not teach the Swim-by until the water temperature is at least 60°F. I would also avoid cold, raw, cloudy days even if the water is warm.

Step 1. Lining to Pile

Identify a pile of about 10 white bumpers 2-3' up on the shore across the pond by throwing one to it. I often allow the dog to watch me establish the pile either by walking around or tossing them across the pond. If you are not an accurate thrower do not toss them since you do not want a mess of bumpers all over the area, some in the water, some on land.

Send the dog on his name straight across the pond starting close to the edge. Repeat, lining across the pond using the command ‘back’. Continue by mixing up sends from your side as well as remote sends with the dog facing you in front (front sit position). Your dog should be enthusiastically going and coming. Get a quick re-entry by blowing the whistle or commanding here, the instant the dog reaches the bumper. Shopping for bumpers should have been cleaned up on earlier land work. Remote sends should be varied from 10-20 feet from shore. Repeat this step a second day unless the first session went perfectly.

Step 2.  Forcing to the Pile

This step involves the use of the e-collar to reinforce the ‘back’ command both on land and in the water. Start the session by marking the pile and giving 2-3 freebies. Put your dog in a remote sit front finish position 10-20' from the water’s edge. Command ‘back’ and just after the dog has turned, nick and then repeat the command ‘back’. Use momentary mode or a very quick nick on the continuous mode. Use a level lower than you used on land force to the pile. (Example: if you forced on land with a level 5, high momentary, use level 5 medium or low.) The procedure now is to mix-up freebie sends with forced sends and nicks on land with nicks in the water. I do about 2 forces on land for each force on water, 2 freebies for each force, and 2 remotes for each side send. Read your dog and watch for bugging, no-goes, flaring problems. These should have been dealt with on land but they may reoccur here. React to hints of their reoccurrence by adding freebies, more remote sends or lowering intensity and duration. Your goal is not to avoid the force but to avoid bad habits, poor attitude and too much concern by the dog.

The response that you desire is a stable one with compulsion to go. This indicates your dog accepts the pressure, understands what it is for and what to do in response to the command. This is ideal. In my experience, you can achieve this better by teaching and balancing your sequence and application of pressure than you can by gritting your teeth and forcing your dog through every mistake or problem. The solid sit with a clear anticipation of going may come after only 3 forces, but usually it is not evident for 5-10 or more forces on 2 days.

Generally, I would only spend two days on the force to the pile step, unless problems escalate. If a mess does occur, consider going back to a land pile to iron out.

I am aware of Swim-by horror stories in which dogs have nearly drowned or quit retrieving during this and later stages of the Swim-by. That is not only totally unacceptable, it illustrates a crude and unsophisticated approach to training. Either such dogs should not be trained for this work or the trainer needs a giant wake-up call on their methods.

Step 3.  Stopping to Whistle and Treading Water

On day 3 or 4 and after step 2 is finished, start once again by identifying the pile and lining across a couple of times. On the next send, stop your dog with a whistle sit when half-way across en route. Be prepared for a quick second whistle and even a verbal “sit”. Your goal now is to get your dog to turn around sharply and look at you while treading water in the same spot. You can help this by focusing on your dog and showing great interest. Small gestures or movements can be conveyed to get your dog to think that you are about to do something. I might even step the opposite way if a dog looks like it may turn one way. I might say “look” (or whatever you used in the yard to get them to watch you). Some dogs will tread naturally, some will want to turn, some will come-in and some will simply sink lower and lower in the water. Try to make progress here each time you stop by gradually increasing the tread and “stare at me” time. First a few seconds before you cast and gradually 5-10 seconds. Such eye contact can be rewarded with a “good dog”. Turns back require an immediate sit whistle. Swim-ins require a “back” followed by a later stop. Try to counter any tendency to not tread but reinforce any tread success. Since the emphasis here is teaching a new skill, I avoid the use of the collar. It’s too easy for the dog to get the wrong idea, not relax or perhaps panic. Remember your use of the collar in this location, up until now, has been to drive back.

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